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Climbing in Long Dong, Taiwan

  • Matthieu
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3 years 5 months ago #3 by Matthieu
Matthieu created the topic: Climbing in Long Dong, Taiwan

I'm sharing here some info about Long Dong, Taiwan, a great seaside crag with many trad and sports climbing options.

The crag is under an hour drive from Taipei. It is located 50km North-East from the capital city. The place is named after the very peaceful nearby village. Some say it is one of the best coastal climbing areas in the world!

There are over 500 routes spread around 9 areas, all within walking distance from each other. Approx half of the routes listed in the topo are trad and the other half are sports climbing.
Due to its location, bolt and anchor corrosion is a real threat. There are initiatives under way to replace existing stainless steel gear with titanium.
An updated list of routes partially or fully re-bolted can be found here: thebivylongdong.com/routes-partially-ful...with-titanium-bolts/

The must-have topo book for Long Dong is "Rock climbing Taiwan" by Matt Robertson.

TO GET THERE
From Taipei, you can get to Long Dong by taking the Kao Kuang line bus n°1811 at the Taipei main bus station, close to Taipei main MRT/train/HSR station.
To go to Area n°9: School gate (the first one, coming from Taipei), get off at Long Dong harbor, walk along the coast, past the elementary school. A few hundred meters further, on your right, there will be area n°9. GPS: N25°6'45.58'' E121°55'17.652''
If instead you want to start at Area n°1: Back door or Area n°2: Golden valley (the last ones, coming from Taipei), ask the bus driver to drop you right after the tunnel, after Long Dong harbor. GPS: N25°6'17.737'' E121°55'22.904''

You can find out more information here: www.kingbus.com.tw/ticketPriceResult.php?sid=97

ACCOMMODATION
The best place to stay overnight nearby is probably the Bivy, in the neighbor village of Bitou, 2km North from Long Dong. The owners are a Singaporean couple who also teach all sorts of climbing courses including trad climbing. Walking from there to the cliffs (Area n°9) takes approx 30min.
For more information about the Bivy: thebivylongdong.com/
GPS: N25°7'17.699'' E121°54'53.319''

REST DAY ACTIVITIES
If you need a change, there are several hiking trails near Bitou Cape (see below - trail to the lighthouse) and Long Dong. If you are staying at the Bivy, the owners will for sure be able to indicate you a few options.
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